SXSW Review: A Matter of Taste: Serving Up Paul Liebrandt

A Matter of Taste: Serving Up Paul Liebrandt may seem like it's riding on the coattails of foodie phenomenon of recent years. Nine years in the making, the documentary about a rising-star New York chef pre-dates Top Chef by some years.

Liebrandt made a splash on the New York City food scene as the epitome of enfant terrible chef, arrogant with the skill to back it up. But as A Matter of Taste reveals, all the skill in the world does not equate to success, especially when your art depends on location, reputation and finances. At 24, Liebrandt was the youngest chef to receive a three-star review from The New York Times, but outside of New York you may not have heard of him. Until now. 

Sally Rowe's feature directorial debut focuses as much on the business side of restaurants as the man as Liebrandt matures as a chef and a person. When Rowe started filming him, Liebrandt was on the verge of culinary stardom only to have it elude him in arguably the most competitive restaurant arena in the world. Filled with interviews of food critics and celebrity chefs such as Thomas Keller and Eric Ripert, A Matter of Taste is insightfully engaging as Liebrandt's journey is documented, with Liebrandt is the viewer's guide to into the kitchens of New York. Most people know about "location, location, location" but the economic realities are much more involved, as is the personal toll of working the hours necessary to bring those gorgeous dishes to your table.

And gorgeous they are; Rowe ensures that the audience sees Liebrandt work his magic in the kitchen as well as view the end result. His unorthodox approach to food -- an often polarizing deconstructionist style that critics and foodies either love or hate – is sumptuously captured. It's tempting to recommend eating before viewing this movie, for fear of over-salivating. At the same time, A Matter of Taste is surely going to cause a spike in reservations at the finer restaurants wherever it's shown.

Unlike another SXSW 2011 selection El Bulli: Cooking in Progress, A Matter of Taste does not require an adventurous palate, nor any foreknowledge of molecular gastronomy or the chef to fully appreciate the film. That's not to say connoisseurs won't appreciate it; Rowe has provided enough background to make it accessible to most audience members. If you aren't familiar with the New York Times restaurant rating system, or even Michelin stars, you will by the time the closing credits begin.

Being in a foodie town blessed with the Alamo Drafthouse, it's hard not to crave a special screening of A Matter of Taste, perhaps with a film feast or even a special guest (hint, hint). If not, and you didn’t make it to the SXSW premiere with Liebrandt in attendance, you're in luck. Formerly known as A Mouthful, the documentary A Matter of Taste has been picked up by HBO, with a broadcast premiere set for summer 2011. You can read more about the film at its website.

[photo of Paul Liebrandt during an Arena photoshoot, courtesy of SXSW and Rowe Road Productions]