Review: Coco Before Chanel

Coco Chanel is a name synonymous with a classic style, of simple lines and comfortable fit but not always for everyone. Such is the film Coco Before Chanel, a biopic by Anne Fontaine based on the book Chanel and Her World: Friends, Fashions, and Fame by Coco's official biographer Edmonde Charles-Roux. Fontaine's film is less about the events of Chanel's life and more a window into the provincial beginning and formative years of a woman who defied standards and became an internationally known icon.

Young Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel and her sister were abandoned in an orphanage after the death of their mother. As young women, the Chanel sisters become chanteuses in provincial France. While working as a part-time seamstress, Coco (Audrey Tautou) meets and becomes the courtesan of millionaire playboy Balsan, devilishly played by Benoît Poelvoorde. She moves into his country house, where she hides from his guests at the request of the baron. During this time Coco meets and drinks with Balsan's polo-playing friends, which includes the affluent and self-made Arthur "Boy" Capel, dashingly portrayed by Alessandro Nivola.

In defiance to Balsan's desire for her to wear the restrictive and flamboyant fashions of the Belle Époque, Coco dresses herself in men's clothing, including trousers and ties. After Balsan tires of his latest paramour, Boy Capel steps in like a romance-novel hero, sweeping Coco off to a lovers' tryst at the seaside.

Audrey Tautou, best known for her role in Amelie, plays Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel as an independent woman who is determined to move beyond the life she was born into. Her intensity and elegance perfectly fit the image of Coco Chanel, although at times I felt I was unable to detach characteristics from her portrayal of Amelie.

The central characters are well-cast; as much as I did not want to like Balsan after he moves on to new territory, Benoît Poelvoorde's impeccable portrayal makes it difficult not to warm to his foibles. Supporting actresses Marie Gillian as Adrienne Chanel and Emmanuelle Devos as Emilienne d'Alençon give solid performances.

The biggest flaw I found with Coco Before Chanel is in the denoument. Despite a running time of 105 minutes, the film seems a bit drawn out in observation of the characters, and yet abruptly ends after the climactic scene. Viewers may be left puzzled with unresolved emotions and scenes. Whether these flaws are forgiven by awards organizations will be of interest, as the film's cast and wardrobe design (for period and Chanel's fashion line) are all deserving of nominations.